

The 4% rule says you can safely withdraw 4% of your portfolio in retirement. But new research says the real number is 3.9% — or 5.7%. Here's what changed.

How to build a retirement plan that actually holds up: savings rate, investment strategy, gap analysis, and a worked example for a late starter at 45.

Learn how to calculate your personal retirement age based on savings, spending, Social Security, and healthcare costs, not arbitrary rules of thumb.

Founder of Arcanomy
Ph.D. engineer and MBA writing about wealth psychology, financial clarity, and why most money advice misses the point.
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You're at a dinner party. Someone mentions they need "about two million" to retire. Someone else says $3 million. A third person insists $500,000 is plenty. All three are confidently wrong, because none of them started with the only number that matters: what they actually spend.
Your FI number isn't a round number you pull from the air. It's a precise calculation based on your annual expenses, your withdrawal rate, and your time horizon. Get it right, and you have a target worth chasing. Get it wrong, and you'll either work years too long or run out of money too early.
The short version: Your FI (Financial Independence) number = annual expenses × 25 (for a 4% withdrawal rate) or annual expenses × 28.6 (for a more conservative 3.5% rate). It's the invested portfolio that generates enough passive income to cover your life, forever. But one number is a starting point, not a final answer. Adjustments for taxes, healthcare, Social Security, and spending changes matter.
The Rule of 25 is the inverse of the 4% safe withdrawal rate (SWR). If you can withdraw 4% of your portfolio each year (adjusted for inflation) without depleting it over 30 years, then you need 1 ÷ 0.04 = 25 times your annual spending [1].
William Bengen established this in 1994 by analyzing every 30-year retirement period in U.S. market history [2]. The Trinity Study (Cooley, Hubbard, and Walz, 1998) confirmed it: a portfolio of 50% stocks and 50% bonds had a 95% success rate at a 4% withdrawal over 30 years [3].
The math is clean:
| Your Annual Expenses | FI Number (25×) |
|---|---|
| $30,000 | $750,000 |
| $40k | $1,000,000 |
| $55,000 | $1,375,000 |
| $75k | $1,875,000 |
| $100,000 | $2,500,000 |
That's it. Your annual spending, times 25. Every FIRE calculation starts here.
But "starts here" is the key phrase. The 25× rule assumes a 30-year retirement. If you're 35 and planning to retire at 45, your money needs to last 45 to 50 years, not 30. And 4% might be too aggressive for that timeline.
Morningstar's 2025 research recommends a 3.9% starting withdrawal rate for a standard 30-year retirement [4]. For retirements longer than 30 years, many planners suggest 3.5% or even 3.25%.
Here's how the withdrawal rate changes your target:
| Annual Expenses | FI Number at 4% (25×) | FI Number at 3.5% (~28.6×) | FI Number at 3.25% (~30.8×) |
|---|---|---|---|
| $40,000 | $1,000,000 | $1,142,857 | $1,230,769 |
| $55k | $1,375,000 | $1,571,429 | $1,692,308 |
| $75,000 | $1,875,000 | $2,142,857 | $2,307,692 |
For Maya, a 32-year-old data analyst who plans to stop working at 50, the difference between 4% and 3.5% is $197,000 (on $55,000 spending). That's roughly three extra years of saving. Is the added safety worth three years of work? Depends on your risk tolerance. But the question is worth asking out loud, preferably before you tell your boss you're done.
Let's run the numbers for Maya.
Step 1: Find actual annual spending Maya tracks expenses for six months and projects her annual spending:
Step 2: Calculate baseline FI number $55,400 × 25 = $1,385,000
Step 3: Adjust for 40+ year retirement Maya is retiring at 50. She needs money for potentially 45 years. Using 3.5% SWR: $55,400 ÷ 0.035 = $1,582,857
Step 4: Consider Social Security Maya estimates a Social Security benefit of $24,000/year at age 67 [6]. From 67 onward, her portfolio only needs to cover $31,400 ($55,400 minus $24,000).
This "bridge" model means she needs her full $55,400 covered by the portfolio from age 50 to 67 (17 years), then only $31,400 from 67 onward. The exact impact depends on the modeling tool, but it generally brings her effective FI number back down closer to the baseline of $1.4 million.
Maya's working FI number: $1.4 to $1.6 million, depending on withdrawal rate and Social Security assumptions.
Mistake 1: Using gross expenses instead of after-tax expenses. If your FI money is in a traditional 401(k), you need to withdraw enough to cover your bills plus the taxes on that withdrawal. A $55,000 spending need might require $62,000 or more in gross withdrawals from a pre-tax account. Plan accordingly, or prioritize Roth accounts.
Mistake 2: Including home equity. Unless you plan to sell your house and invest the proceeds, home equity doesn't count toward your FI number. It reduces expenses (no rent or mortgage) but doesn't generate withdrawal income. Your house is a place to live, not a retirement fund.
Mistake 3: Treating the number as static. Life changes. Kids grow up. Health insurance costs shift. Your spending at 50 won't be identical to your spending at 70. Build in flexibility. Review your number annually. A single number is a compass heading, not a GPS coordinate.
Mistake 4: Ignoring healthcare before Medicare. This is the blind spot that catches the most people. Fidelity estimates a 65-year-old retiring in 2025 needs $172,500 in after-tax savings just for medical expenses, and that excludes long-term care [7]. For early retirees, the pre-65 healthcare gap can cost $8,000 to $20,000 per year depending on age, state, and subsidy eligibility.
There's a phenomenon in the FIRE community called "one more year syndrome." You hit your FI number, and instead of making a change, you think: what if the market drops 20% next year? What if healthcare costs spike? What if my spending estimate was wrong?
So you work one more year. Then another.
This isn't irrational. Sequence of returns risk (the danger of a big market drop in your first few years of retirement) is real. But at some point, overworking for extra safety has its own cost: years of freedom you'll never get back.
A practical compromise: build a 1 to 2-year cash buffer in a high-yield savings account outside your investment portfolio. If the market drops 30% in year one, you live off cash while your portfolio recovers. This reduces sequence risk without requiring you to save an additional $300,000 "just in case."
Your FI number is a target, not a trigger. Hitting it means you can stop. Whether you should stop depends on context that no formula can capture.